“Hey I have this problem with my plant so I sprayed it.”  “With what?” “Oh something I had in the shed.” This is a very careless attitude.

*1. Identify the pest. You must know the enemy. Knowing what you are trying to control will make you more successful in controlling.

*2. Identify your level of tolerance. A few holes in some leaves should not cause a panic run to the shed for “something”.

*3. Just because it is a bug doesn’t make it bad. There are zillions of insects in the world. You can identify a Butterfly. How about Ladybug larvae, who eat thousands of aphids a day? Ground Beetles who love to dine on slugs? 

*4. All insecticide and fungicide labels identify toxicity on their label. These are Caution (mildly toxic), Warning (more toxic) and Danger (very toxic). Choose the one with the lowest toxicity to control your enemy. No need to bring a tank to an anthill. Also, for your own safety: Never spray when it is windy! Wear protective clothing! Read the label! Use the amount of chemical advised. More is NOT better.

*5. Choose to be responsible and apply only if you must. The residues of these chemicals end up in the waterways, and also in you and your home. A recent study found 2,4, D, used to kill weeds in lawns, has been found in homes up to 3 days after it is spread. (And has been found to cause cancer in dogs.) Also, there is collateral damage every time you choose to spray in the garden. Sevin, used extensively to kill everything from aphids to Japanese Beetles, is highly toxic to bees. 10 million fish are killed yearly by pesticide runoff. Do you really need to spray?