EEEK! A bug! Quick...spray it!!!!!
OR NOT..................

With so many chemicals readily available to the homeowner, it has become the path of least resistance to go to your local garden center, grab a chemical off the shelf and run home to spray with wild abandon. "I'll get those bugs!" This process is widely accepted, although with the more environmentally tuned table turning, it is becoming apparent that some serious education about chemical use and application is in order.

First of all, the pest must be identified, and you also should know the name of the plant. Some insects are good for your garden. Consider Ladybugs. Can you identify their larva which can eat hundreds of aphids a day? Not all bugs are created the same! They eat differently, they have life cycles which makes them more vulnerable at certain stages, and some only feed at night. You must know your enemy and it's habits! Seeing a hole  in a leaf is not grounds for spraying the property down with "something" to kill "whatever" is eating your plant. Fungus problems react the same way, with better times to react to the situation.

Chemicals also need to be applied properly. Caution and respect need to be practiced. If the directions instruct 1 Tablespoon per gallon, then don't "add a little more" to make it work better. The companies include the information after testing to make effective and proper dilution rates. Adding "a little more" can cause a condition known as phytotoxicity. That means the chemical actually damages the plant. Another product known as spreader sticker can also be added to help the chemical adhere to the foliage. However! Unless a chemical states on the label that it can be added together with another, never, never, mix two together. Simple bleach and ammonia  mixed together can cause deadly fumes. There are many ways to apply the chemical; use which seems appropriate for the size of the job your are doing. As for the respect part, you need to protect yourself from the chemical. It is meant to be applied to the plant, not you! The cautions of long sleeves, pants, hat and a respirator or bandana to cover your breathing should not be taken lightly. Also don't apply when it is windy or very hot. The heat makes the chemical diffuse in the air into a finer particle, making it easier to enter your skin or breathing.    

Organic chemicals should be the better alternative, however, they are still a chemical capable of killing insects and respect them as well. Insecticidal soaps do well for soft bodied insects such as aphids. Bacillus thuringiensis- known as BT-is used to kill caterpillars. It is a microorganism which enters the pests body, occupying more and more of the victim's body. Horticultural oils work by smothering the pest.

Non-chemical solutions remain very effective. Slugs can be caught and drowned in beer traps (non-alcoholic beer works just as well). Sticky traps can catch whiteflies, gypsy moth caterpillars, apple maggots and others. Floating row covers over vegetable gardens prevent contact for the pests. Japanese Beetles can be knocked off into a can of water to drown, and a clever man once told me he used a hand vacuum to clean the Japanese Beetles off his roses.

Last, but certainly not least, plant selection can make a large impact on the amount of damage you will see in your landscape. Unfortunately, some plants are just prone to insect or disease damage. Others, normally resistant, will become prone to damage when improperly planted or sited.  Dogwood (Cornus florida) is a prime example. In its native habitat, it is an understory tree, growing in the shade of other, larger trees. Many Dogwoods end up suffering through the slow painful death of being planted in hot full sun in poorly drained soil (not its native woodland soil ). In this weakened state they will become more susceptible to Powdery Mildew, Anthracnose, Borers and leaf scorch. Choose your plants (and their new homes) carefully!    

With the more enlightened environmental age upon us, consider addressing any problem with the IPM ( Integrated Pest Management) approach. IPM rests on three principles: 1. Have clear goals and know the level of damage you will tolerate. 2. Treat the pest, not the garden, targeting specific problems before they become overwhelming. 3. Use natural controls first, low toxicity chemicals only if natural controls fail, and more powerful chemicals only as a last resort.

To spray or not to spray is ultimately your choice. Be responsible. The birds, butterflies, frogs and wildlife thank you for your concern........