Archive for the 'Gardening' Category

Getting a Greener Lawn - Tips and Tricks

admin on Jul 8th 2008

A lush green lawn is always a beautiful sight to see around your home. However, a lot of people may wonder why some lawns seem greener and more attractive than others. But what you should really know is that getting a greener lawn does not have to be as difficult as it may seem. As long as you know the basics, you too can enjoy having healthy grass in your yard. Here are some tips and tricks to help you achieve this.

Watering Lawns

Remember that grass must be able to receive sufficient water in a consistent schedule in order to become healthier and greener. And so, this is the very first thing that you must check. Take a look at what type of climate you have in your area, and use this as a guide for the frequency in watering your lawn.

If you live in an area that has a dry climate, then it might be easier and more convenient for you to simply install an automatic irrigation system. After all, in the long run, this can save you a lot of money and effort. On the other hand, if you are located in an area like the Pacific Northwest, then it may be best to just rely on nature to do the watering for you.

Dethatching

Another important factor to consider is whether your lawn needs to be dethatched. Lawn thatches are actually layers of dead turf grass in your lawn. They are usually between the green vegetation and soil surface. It is very important to remove in order to maintain a healthy lawn because they may create competition to your new grass for the absorption of nutrients as well as living and growing space.

Take note that thatch should not exceed the height measurement of half an inch. If the thatch in your yard does exceed this measurement, then it is vital to have your lawn dethatched before planting new and healthy grass.

Lawn Fertilizers and Controlling Weeds

Fertilizers are common for flowering plants or in growing vegetables, but many people have not really considered using them for grass. However, more and more individuals these days have consistently seen the benefits of using lawn fertilizers in achieving greener and healthier grass.

Before buying lawn fertilizers, make sure that it is compatible with the type of grass that you have in your lawn. In addition, never forget to read instructions included with the product fully and follow them explicitly when it comes to the quantity, frequency, and, of course, under what specific conditions to apply.

A lot of fertilizer products out in the market these days also offer weed control. This may be very helpful for you because weeds may compete with your grass for available nutrients. And of course, plucking out weeds one by one can be very tiring and unpractical. It would be best if you could find a fertilizer that offers this particular feature to save on money and hard work.

Mowing Lawns

Grass is actually one of the few plants that thrive from being cut. This is the reason why you should mow your lawn regularly, and investing in a good lawn mower will be a great deal if you are dedicated to maintaining that beautiful green lawn. Make sure that the blades of your mower are always sharp so they are able able to produce a clean cut. And as much as possible, avoid letting the grass in your yard get too tall.

The greener and healthier your lawn is, the more it can add to the beauty of your home. Make sure to follow these very essential tips and tricks in maintaining grass. If you do, you\’ll surely end up with a greener lawn that you can be proud of.

This article is provided by the-landscape-design-site.com website, which offers free landscape design tips, landscape and garden pictures, and many other resources to help you make the best garden and landscape possible.
Get more information regarding lawn care.

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Doctor’ s Advice - For Your Fish!

Queen B on Jun 23rd 2008

Simple solutions to maintain pond fish health

As gardeners, we are always very aware of health problems with our plants, as they are easy to spot and diagnose. However, pond problems more often can go undetected. Although at this time of year your pond is now looking its best, and fish and other aquatic organisms are their healthiest, disease still can occur. Here are a few solutions to the common problems that may appear.

Common Problems

Finrot If your fish have Finrot, their fins become ragged and streaked with blood, appearing “eaten away,” which is exactly what the bacteria that cause this disease are doing. Finrot is a classic sign that your pond has an environmental problem, so it is essential to check water quality for raised levels of ammonia and nitrite. Test your pond water for pH, nitrates, alkalinity and ammonia by using a TetraTest Laborett testing kit®. When poor water quality is detected a large (30-50 partial water change should be undertaken and any excess debris removed. If using a municipal or treated water supply, be sure to use TetraPond AquaSafe® to remove harmful chloramines. And be sure to keep your filtration system operating at peak efficiency with regular cleaning. If condition persists, treatment for the problem is straightforward using a proprietary treatment such as TetraPond DesaFin®. Always use as directed.

Sliminess of skin. Fish become very irritated rubbing against underwater objects and jumping. In severe cases they swim in a listless fashion, with fins folded against their body and often isolated from other fish. Closer inspection may reveal a slimy coating over the body or in patches - particularly obvious against dark areas of the body and eyes. The irritation may be caused by poor water quality skin and gill parasites, eg protozoans (costia, chilodonella, whitespot) and flukes. To treat, If all fish are affected, check the water quality using a test kit. Treat the parasites in the pond with TetraPond DesiFin.

Fungus appears as tufts of white (or green in ponds with a lot of green water algae) “cotton wool” material usually in patches on the fish’s body. This secondary infection is a sign of damage. Again, the remedy is straightforward using a proprietary treatment.

Whitespot is just that - small white spots on the fins and body of your fish. Due to its complex lifecycle, this parasite must be killed with five day treatments. On day one, treat your pond with a general remedy. Five days later repeat, after a twenty percent water change. Repeat at five daily intervals if necessary.

Salt Dip - Sick fish should be removed from the pond to a treatment vessel (eg an old wading pool or aquarium), whenever possible, to prevent disease spreading to the other fish. Make an un-iodized salt dip by following instructions on salt packaging, adjusting its potency for the number of fish per square inch. Gently place fish in a soft nylon net, lower them into the salt dip for time instructed on salt dip packaging. As a result, 99of microscopic parasites that kill fish will drop off the fish. Salt dips are the least toxic method and do wonders.

After you’ve diagnosed

If more than 2 or 3 fish are affected, or if the disease is infectious, it is necessary to treat the pond. Before doing so change 10of the water and remove excess debris, which would otherwise bind with the remedy making it less effective. To ensure the disease remedy is evenly distributed the required dose should be mixed with a little pond water and spread over the pond surface using a clean bucket or watering can.

Most pond remedies are ineffective at temperatures below 50 F. Therefore in winter if a fish requires treatment, it should be placed into a separate container which should be positioned where it will slowly warm to over 50F. Avoid sudden temperature changes.

“Sudden” losses of fish are often attributable to low oxygen levels in the water, particularly in well-planted ponds since oxygen levels decline at night when plants and fish compete for limited oxygen in the warm water. Ensure maximum water aeration by keeping waterfalls and fountains running at night as well as in the daytime.

For more information on our line of fish, plant and water treatment products view the water treatments in our product catalog.

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How to care for aquatic plants

Queen B on Jun 23rd 2008

Colorful, exotic flowers and rich foliage will enhance the beauty and health of virtually any pond. Selecting a variety of heights, textures and leaf shapes produces visual interest and depth - which contributes to a balanced look and balanced ecosystem.

Aquatic plants offer a beautiful way to soften the pond’s edge and create a unique landscape capturing the water gardener’s individuality.When designing the water garden or adding to it, remind follow growing guidelines so plants can thrive in the proper sunlight requirements and climate zone and soil conditions. When choosing the plants, take into account the anticipated size once it is fully mature. As a result, plants will aesthetically complement one another without overcrowding and will physically contribute to the health of the entire ecosystem.

Aquatic Plant Types

A well-planned blend of floating plants and submerged marginals decoratively frames the pond’s edge.

Bog plants grow in wet ground in the perimeter of the pond, visually tying the pond to the surrounding garden, extending the waterscape. They thrive when grown in moist, damp soil that is rich in organic matter or regularly fertilized. Some of the most common bogs found in water gardens are Sweet Flag, Taro, Horsetail, Hostas and Rush.

Marginals are used to outline the pond perimeter and create a natural, relaxed design.

They grow best in shallow waters and should be submerged to a depth of 10 inches. Usually marginals are potted in fabric or plastic planters along a shallow shelf within the pond’s edge. Common examples are Water Hawthorn, Umbrella Grass, Canna Hybrids, Irises, Lizard’s Tail, Lotus and Cattails/Reed Mace.

Floating plants act as ground cover on the water’s surface which grants fish shade from sun and protection from pond predators or sever weather. This haven also offers ideal breeding areas for fish. With plant coverage - ideally about 60of the surface - water temperatures remain relatively stable in changing air temperatures from morning to night. For optimal growth, remind customers to keep the moving water or the commotion of water features/fountains at a reasonable distance. Some floating plants also make good oxygenators, such as Water Lilies, Water Hyacinth. Water Lettuce, Water Fern and are also among the most popular floating plants.

Submerged plants, or oxygenators, are valuable to pond health and water clarity because they act as natural filters and remove excess nutrients from the pond. Many varieties bloom small flowers above the pond surface, where you’ll find miniscule oxygen bubbles attached to the plant. Recommend one bundle of oxygenators for every square foot of the pond’s surface area. Some popular varieties are Anacharis and Parrots Feather.

Plants Promote Water Quality and Pond Health

Aside from their beauty, plants keep algae in check and oxygen at peak levels. Pond plants are an excellent source of natural filtration, helping the water look clean and clear. After the bacteria in pond filters break down harmful pollutants, plants absorb and remove them. It’s a beneficial natural balance - plants thrive from the nitrates which purifies the water from toxins that detrimental to fish.

Aquatic plants are very effective algae fighters. They compete for sunlight and remove excess nutrients (specifically nitrates) that would otherwise feed algae, the nemesis of all pond keepers!

Through photosynthesis during daylight hours, plants produce oxygen vital for pond life. Keep fast-spreading floating varieties, such as water hyacinths in control. Consider extending a fish line across the pond to “corral” water hyacinths in a specific corner of the pond thus help prevent them from spreading. Since plants respire and use oxygen at night, fish need access to the water surface, which is the primary source of oxygen.

Maintaining Beauty

Pond plants are best grown in suitably sized fabric or plastic containers. This allows them to be moved and removed easily during cleaning. Additionally, it makes rearranging and reinventing the waterscape easy.

A wide variety of planters are available today, including everything from planting baskets to flexible fabric planters that form to the pond floor. Fabric planters, in particular, allow water and nutrients to permeate the material to flow freely while preventing roots to be exposed or expand. This prevents fish from munching on roots, making it easier to knock over plants and cloud the water.

Keep plants looking their best by tending to them regularly, therefore saving hours of accumulated duties. Removing dead blossoms, leaves, and stems helps keep the pond free of debris and decay.

Fertilize pond plants as directed to help maximize their color and growth. Most importantly, remind pond keepers to use fertilizers that are safe for fish and other pond inhabitants.

The Perfect Paradise

The colors, selections and combinations of pond plants are endless, suiting every personal taste. They’ll improve your home’s curb appeal and enhance the quality of life by spending more time in your personal oasis.

For more information on our plant fertilizers and planters view the plant products in our catalog.

Filed in Aquadic, Gardening, Maintance, Tetra | One response so far

How to Manage and ID Japanese Maple

Queen B on Jun 23rd 2008

Introduction:
Japanese maple is one of the most versatile trees for any yard, patio or garden. Often grown for its unique 7-palmed green or red colored leaf, the maple also has an interesting growth habit with a fine leaf texture and muscular-looking multiple trunks. Japanese maples have extraordinary fall colors that range from bright yellow through orange and red, and is often striking, even on trees grown in total shade.
Specifics:
Scientific name: Acer palmatum
Pronunciation: AY-ser pal-MAY-tum
Common name(s): Japanese Maple
Family: Aceraceae
USDA hardiness zones: USDA hardiness zones: 5B through 8
Origin: not native to North America
Uses: Bonsai; container or above-ground planter; near a deck or patio; trainable as a standard; specimen
Availability: generally available in many areas within its hardiness range.

Cultivars:
There are many cultivars of Japanese maple with a wide variety of leaf shapes and color, growth habits, and sizes: ‘Atropurpureum’ - reddish leaves with five lobes; ‘Bloodgood’ - new foliage bright red, darkening to dark green; ‘Burgundy Lace’ - reddish foliage and cut leaves; ‘Dissectum’ - finely dissected leaves in green or red, 10 to 12 feet tall; ‘Elegans’ - leaves with rose-colored margins when they first unfold; ‘Ornatum’ - foliage is cut and reddish.

Pests:
Aphids can infest Japanese maples and heavy populations can cause leaf drop or a dripping of “honeydew”. Scales can be a problem. Neither insect causes death. If borers become active, it probably means you have an already sick tree. Keep the tree healthy.
Scorching may be a problem during periods of high temperatures accompanied by wind. Planting Japanese maple in a bit of shade can help. Keep trees well watered during dry periods. Symptoms are tan dead areas on foliage.

Description:
Height: 15 to 25 feet
Spread: 15 to 25 feet
Crown uniformity: symmetrical canopy with a regular (or smooth) outline, and individuals have more or less identical crown forms
Crown shape: round; vase shape
Crown density: moderate
Growth rate: slow
Texture: medium

Trunk and Branches:
Trunk/bark/branches: bark is thin and easily damaged from mechanical impact; droop as the tree grows, and will require pruning for vehicular or pedestrian clearance beneath the canopy; routinely grown with, or trainable to be grown with, multiple trunks; showy trunk; no thorns
Pruning requirement: requires pruning to develop strong structure

Breakage: resistant
Current year twig color: green; reddish
Current year twig thickness: thin

Foliage:
Leaf arrangement: opposite/subopposite
Leaf type: simple
Leaf margin: lobed; serrate
Leaf shape: star-shaped
Leaf venation: palmate
Leaf type and persistence: deciduous
Leaf blade length: 2 to 4 inches
Leaf color: green
Fall color: copper; orange; red; yellow
Fall characteristic: showy

Pruning:
Most maples, if in good health and free to grow, need very little pruning. Only “train” for developing a leading (or multiple) shoot(s) which will eventually establish the tree’s framework.
Maples should not be pruned in spring and could bleed profusely. Wait to prune until late summer to early autumn and only on a young tree. A habit should be encourage in which the branches develop low and grow up at sharp angles. If suckering of green-leafed root stock occurs below the graft line on your red-leafed grafted variety, remove the green sprout immediately.

Culture:
Light requirement: tree grows in part shade/part sun; tree grows in the shade
Soil tolerances: clay; loam; sand; slightly alkaline; acidic; well-drained
Drought tolerance: moderate
Aerosol salt tolerance: none
Soil salt tolerance: moderate

In Depth:
The growing habit of a Japanese maple varies widely depending on cultivar. From globose, branching to the ground to upright to vase-shaped, the maple is always a delight to look at. The globose selections look best when they are allowed to branch to the ground. Be sure to clear all turf away from beneath the branches of these low growing types so the lawn mower will not damage the tree. The more upright selections make nice patio or small shade trees for residential lots, and, with pruning to remove drooping branches, provide adequate clearance for pedestrian traffic to pass close to the tree. More compact cultivars make wonderful accents for any landscape.
Japanese maple tends to leaf out early, so it may be injured by spring frosts. Protect them from drying winds and direct sun by providing exposure to partial or filtered shade and well-drained, acid soil with plenty of organic matter, particularly in the southern part of its range. Leaves often scorch in hot summer weather in USDA hardiness zones 7b and 8, unless they are in some shade or irrigated during dry weather. More direct sun can be tolerated in the northern part of the range. Be sure drainage is maintained and never allow water to stand around the roots. The tree grows fine on clay soils as long as the ground is sloped so water does not accumulate in the soil. Responds well to several inches of mulch placed beneath the canopy.

Article Source: Forestry.About.com

Filed in Gardening, Japanese Maples, Maintance, Trees | One response so far

Pennsylvania Gardening Calendar

admin on Jun 16th 2008

Monthly Gardening & Lawn Care Chores for Zones 5 & 6

Timing is everything when your goal is a beautiful lawn and garden. Help your plants and lawn thrive throughout the year with these monthly gardening and landscaping tips and chores, including lawn care, pruning, fertilizing, and planting.These month by month gardening tips apply to USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 5 & 6, which encompass all of Western Pennsylvania. Keep in mind that even within zones, climatic factors such as wind and sun exposure, snow cover, and proximity to water combine to produce different “microclimates” which can influence plant adaptability and timing of certain garden chores.

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